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WIKI ANALYSIS
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American Eagle (NYSE: AEO) is a mall-based apparel and accessories retailer that sells its own brands of products throughout the U.S. and Canada. AEO operates three different chains (American Eagle Outfitters, aerie, and Martin + OSA), each of which targets a different segment of customers within the broad 15-40 age group.[1] While the company maintains three separate brands, the overwhelming majority of AEO's sales come from its namesake American Eagle operations. In fiscal 2008, AEO generated $3 billion[2] of sales with a 10.1% operating margin[2], placing it second in the youth apparel retail sub-market in terms of operating profit and revenue behind high-end competitor Abercrombie & Fitch Company (ANF).
AEO has branched out from its 15 to 27 year old customer segment in order to diversify and enhance the company's scope and scale. During 2006, AEO launched its sub-brands aerie (lingerie) and Martin + OSA (sportswear) to target a broader customer base.[3] In order to enter new markets, the company has also entered into a partnership with an international retail operator to open stores in the Middle East. This decision has the added benefit of reducing the effects of U.S. economic cycles on the company's bottom line. The recession in the American economy led to decreased sales in two of the company's most important seasons: back to school and holiday.
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Business OverviewAmerican Eagle sells its own brands of clothing and accessories in mall-based retail stores in the U.S. and Canada.
2008 saw a decrease in revenue, same store sales and operating margin. The recession in the American economy resulted in decreased consumer spending. In an effort to encourage its customers to buy more goods, American Eagle increased the number of sales and promotions it made, which led to a 17% decrease in gross profit.[4] Comparable store sales showed little change in menswear but declined in the high teens in women's clothes and accessories. Average transaction value remained flat despite the fact there was a mid-single digit decline in average unit price. This was due to the fact the average number of transactions per customer increased as consumers took advantage of lower prices and bought more goods.[4]
American Eagle has seen some improvement in the first quarter of fiscal 2009 (ended 5/2/09). Comparable store sales for women's apparel decreased 13% instead of the previous quarter's 23% decline.[5] Comp store sales for aeris and MARTIN + OSA increased by 17 and 7% respectively.[5] The company has also signed a franchise agreement with M.H. Alshaya, an international retail operator. Alshaya will open American Eagle Outfitter stores in the Middle East, with the first one set to open in early 2010. The franchise will require no capital investment from AEO and will be operated primarily by Alshaya, however the deal promises substantial revenues for the company, which is attempting to target young, wealthy consumers in that region.[5]
| Figure | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 |
| Revenue ($millions) | 1,890 | 2,322 | 2,794 | 3,055 | 2,989 |
| Operating margin | 19.1% | 19.8% | 21.0% | 19.6% | 10.1% |
| Same store sales growth (decrease) | 21% | 16% | 12% | 1% | -10% |
| Store total | 846 | 869 | 911 | 987 | 1,098 |
| ' | Fiscal 2004 | Fiscal 2005 | Fiscal 2006 | Fiscal 2007 | Fiscal 2008 |
| Stores at beginning of period | 805 | 846 | 869 | 911 | 987 |
| Stores opened during period | 50 | 36 | 50 | 80 | 122 |
| Stores closed during period | -9 | -13 | -8 | -4 | -11 |
| Stores at end of period | 846 | 869 | 911 | 987 | 1098 |
Trends and Forces
Expanding aerie and Martin + OSAOne of the lynchpins to AEO's growth plans is to grow its aerie and Martin + OSA store brands. aerie offers intimate apparel (underwear, bras, pajamas, robes, etc.) to 15 to 25 year old women, whereas Martin + OSA sells denim and sportswear designed for 25 to 40 year old men and women.[7] At the end of fiscal 2006, AEO operated only 3 stand-alone aerie stores and 5 Martin + OSA stores and neither segment had generated a significant amount of revenue (the company did not break sales out).[8] At the end of fiscal 2008 the company operated 116 aerie and 28 MARTIN + OSA stores.[9] The rapid growth of these retail concepts reflects the positive effect they've had on the company's balance sheet. In the first quarter of fiscal 2009 aerie had a 17% increase in comp store sales and MARTIN + OSA saw a 7% increase in sales. It is interesting to note that, though both chains pursue the same demographic, Abercrombie & Fitch's RUEHL line is set to close in 2009, whereas MARTIN + OSA will expand.
American Eagle's Main Sales Seasons Impacted by RecessionBecause the overwhelming majority of the customers of AEO's brands age from 15 to 25 years old and are students at some level of education, AEO traditionally experiences a significant boost in sales during the end of summer as students shop in preparation for school. The back-to-school shopping season also boosts sales for AEO's competitors such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Aeropostale (ARO) and Pacific Sunwear of California (PSUN). In addition, the retail industry typically sees a large boost in sales leading up to the holidays in November and December. However, in 2008 the American economy slipped into a recession, which made consumers across all income levels less certain of their financial security. They responded to the increasing economic uncertainty by cutting back on non-discretionary spending. Both the back-to-school and holiday seasons of 2008 have been marked by decreased sales and earnings per share.
American Eagle Beginning to Spread Out its StoresBefore the deal with M.H. Alshaya, American Eagle stores were located only in the United States and Canada. This lack of international diversification leaves the company at the mercy of U.S. economic cycles, meaning a slowdown in spending in the United States will not be offset by sales from another region. Decreasing exposure to the economic cycles of one particular region makes a company more able to withstand recessions and other negative events in those regions. Though a number of clothing retailers have flocked to Asia in order to take advantage of developing wealth there, American Eagle has instead made an agreement to open stores in the Middle East, another wealthy region. By spreading its stores across a wider area, the company opens itself to new markets and new sources of revenue.
CompetitionAEO competes with several other retailers in the 14-30 year old apparel market. AEO has consistently been at the top of its sector in terms of profitability and is one of the largest companies in the market in terms of net sales. AEO's 21.0%[2] operating margin is the highest out of all of its competitors, even considering that its 48.0% gross margin rate is considerably lower than the 66.6% gross margin rate of AEO's main competitor, Abercrombie & Fitch Company (ANF).
American Eagle's competitors include:
| Company | 2008 Net Sales (mm) | Gross Margin | Operating Margin | Sales Growth (Decline) from 2007 | Same Store Sales Growth (Decline) | Total Stores | Sales per Store (thousands) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| American Eagle Outfitters[2] | $2,989 | 39.3% | 10.1% | (2.18%) | (10%) | 1,098 | $2,722 |
| Abercrombie & Fitch[12] | $3,540 | 66.7% | 19.7% | (5.59%) | (13%) | 1,127 | $3,141 |
| Aeropostale[13] | $1,885 | 34.7% | 13.2% | 18.5% | 8% | 903 | $2,088 |
References



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