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Tiffany & Co. (NYSE: TIF) is a prime example of an "affordable luxury retailer. The company sells high-end jewelry, diamond rings, and lower-priced silver jewelry in retail stores as well as through catalogs and e-commerce. A big part of the company's strategy has been focusing on higher-end jewelry in its product mix - almost one-third of Tiffany branded sales in 2008 were from gemstone jewelry with an average price of $3,300.[1].
However, the recession that hit the American economy in 2008 through 2009 has forced even affluent consumers to cut back on their spending. American sales decreased by 11% while worldwide sales decreased by 3% during 2008. This decline was due in part to fewer actual transactions, meaning customers are buying less jewelry. Tiffany's international presence has been a benefit given the state of the American economy--strong Asian sales have helped make up for slacking American and European sales. On the other hand, the company's international presence can also be a disadvantage, given the fact that without hedging against exchange rate risk, the company's balance sheet is at the mercy of fluctuations of the U.S. dollar. Also, higher prices of gold and silver lead to higher production costs, which leads to thinner profit margins.
Tiffany & Co. sells its own brand of jewelry (approximately 88% of sales in FY09) as well as third-party designer brands in company-owned and franchised stores in the United States. Tiffany's flagship store in New York City is a vital source of sales for the company, as this one location was responsible for 10% of sales in 2008[2]. Sales at this store, as well as other locations in major American cities, is heavily dependent on foreign tourist spending. The company is divided into segments divided by geographical location (contribution to 2008 sales are in parenthesis):
TIF's net earnings and profit margin decreased in 2008 due in large part to the recession that has hit the American economy and sent ripples through foreign countries. The fourth quarter of fiscal 2008 saw a 75% decrease in net income. However, the company's earnings still beat wall street expectations through sales of its lower-priced merchandise and a cost-cutting campaign started by the company in anticipation of decreased sales. Tiffany was most affected by the decline of sales in the Americas. Sales of goods priced above $50,000 decreased the most. The company's flagship store, responsible for a relatively large portion of the company's sales, saw a 34% decrease in sales during the fourth quarter of fiscal 2009. For fiscal 2010 the company plans to open 13 new stores and focus on marketing in order to attract customers. The company predicts sales will decrease by 11% and earnings between $1.50 and $1.60 per share.[3]
Although the company's 4th quarter fiscal 2008 sales beat analyst expectations, Peltz's Trian, one of the company's largest investors, cut its holdings by 21% in March, equating to $51 million. The company sold the shares at a loss because it bought them in 2008 at $35 and ended up selling them for $22.64 per share.[4] Tiffany currently plans to open 13 stores in the United States during fiscal 2010, focusing mainly on smaller, 2600-square foot stores in which customers can handle the merchandise on their own without the aid of a salesperson. To cut costs further the company closed Iridesse, a chain of 16 stores that only sold pearl jewelry.[5]
While sales in America are decreasing, sales in other regions have increased. 30% of Tiffany's 2008 sales in the gemstone segment came from Asia, with average prices of $3,300. Another 30% of sales in Asia came from diamond rings and wedding bangs, which had an average price of $3,000.[5]
| Type of Jewelry | Description | Average Price | Percent of Total Sales |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Gemstone jewelry and band rings | $3,300 | 27% |
| B | Diamond rings and wedding bands | $3,000 | 20% |
| C | Non-gemstone gold or platinum based jewelry | $700 | 11% |
| D | Non-gemstone silver based jewelry | $200 | 30% |
| Year | Same-store sales increase(decrease) |
| 2004 | 5%[8] |
| 2005 | 5%[9] |
| 2006 | 6%[10] |
| 2007 | 7%[11] |
| 2008 | -9%[12] |
The rest of Tiffany's sales come from timepieces and clocks; sterling silver merchandise, including flatware, hollowware (tea and coffee services, bowls, cups and trays), trophies, key holders, picture frames and desk accessories; stainless steel flatware; crystal, glassware, china and other tableware; custom engraved stationery; writing instruments; eyewear and fashion accessories. Tiffany also sells tablewares and timepieces from other manufacturers in its U.S. stores. None of the aforementioned product categories is responsible for more than 10% of total sales on its own.
In 2008 Tiffany has made strides to enter the eyewear and mobile phone markets. Early 2008 saw the debut of Tiffany's new eyewear line, made possible through a deal with Luxottica Group, S.p.A. (LUX).[13] In addition, Tiffany's partnered with Softbank to produce 8 diamond-encrusted cell phones, available for sale in Japan starting November 1st, that cost 13 million yen (or $134,000 USD) each. The phones sold out in three days.[14]
Luxury retailers such as Tiffany appeal to customers in the upper-income bracket whose absolute spending power is usually not significantly affected by macroeconomic downturns. While the wallets of members of the lower- and middle-classes are significantly pinched during economic downturns, Tiffany's core customers have wealth that allows them to purchase jewelry with average unit prices above $3,000, and these customers are not as affected by downward trends in U.S. economic cycles. However, the recession that hit the country starting in 2008 and continuing into 2009 has affected even those upper-tier consumers. Domestic sales decreased by 11% in 2008 and worldwide sales decreased by 3%. Luxury jewelers across the board are feeling the pinch. For example, Bulgari's net income for 2008 was 75% less than net income for 2007.[15] In this economy luxury companies cannot simply rely on their high-income consumers to weather the storm.
Due to its large international segment exchange rates play a major role in Tiffany's performance. As the company doesn't engage in any significant hedging activity against exchange rate risk, the final amount of its sales and profits are greatly exposed to fluctuations in the value of the U.S. dollar. When the dollar falls against foreign currencies, such as the Japanese yen, Tiffany's sales in this foreign country become more valuable when translated back into dollars. For example, in the first quarter of 2008 Tiffany gained 15% on Japanese sales due to appreciation of the yen against the dollar[16]. This is a major positive for Tiffany, as the dollar has been falling in value since late 2007 and a domestic recession would keep exchange rates in favor of companies with foreign sales.
Exchange rates also directly play a part in domestic sales as they influence foreign tourist spending. When the dollar is weak, U.S. goods are relatively cheap for foreign customers and this leads to higher sales from foreign tourists in U.S. cities such as New York, San Francisco, Las Vegas and other tourist-popular cities. This is particularly important in the New York flagship store where a majority of sales are from foreign tourist purchases.
As a jewelry retailer, a large portion of Tiffany's costs relies on the costs of raw materials such as gold, silver and diamond. From April to May 2009, the prices of gold and silver have both increased. The increase in the price of raw materials leads to an increase in production costs, which leads to thinner profit margins. If the company does not raise prices to compensate for the increase in production costs then it makes less money per sale. Raising prices can have an adverse effect on Tiffany's sales given the economic state of the economy in mid-2009. Diamond prices, on the other hand, have returned to 2007 and 2008 levels[19], meaning majority of production cost increase comes from increased gold and silver prices.
Jewelry shoppers are less price sensitive than consumers of other goods, and cost is often not the major factor in a purchase decision. Important points of differentiation are quality, service and image. Thus, smaller specialized jewelers are able to compete on a store-to-store basis against larger companies such as Tiffany. As such, Tiffany's competition comes from a variety of sources, including other specialty jewelry retail chains, department stores with jewelry operations and small jewelry shops. Tiffany's largest direct competitors include Signet Group (SIG), Zale (ZLC), and Blue Nile (NILE). Signet Group (SIG) Zales Blue Nile (NILE) retailers Tiffany faces competition from upscale and exclusive retailers such as Bulgari and Cartier.
Speciality Jewelry Retailers:
Department Stores:
| Company | Net Sales (mm) | Sales Growth from FY08 | Gross Profit (mm) | Gross Margin | Net earnings (mm) | Total Stores (end FY08) | Stores Outside North America (end FY08) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tiffany & Co. | $2,860 | (2.7%)* | $1,645 | 57.5% | $220 | 206 | 120 |
| Signet Group (SIG) | $3,344 | (8.75%) | $1,080 | 32.3% | ($393.7) | 1,959 | 558 |
| Blue Nile (NILE) | $295 | (18.8%) | $60 | 20.3% | $11 | 0 | 0 |
Categories: Retail | Luxury | Mature | Jewelry Stores
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